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Installation Procedure for Model 100 & 125 Hand Pump
Contents
Introduction
Section 1 Do It Yourself or Call a Pump Professional?
Section 2 Inspecting Your Existing System
Section 3 Replacing the Existing Well Cover
Section 4 Pump Cylinder & Drop Pipe Installation
Section 5 Pump Head Installation
Section 6 Pumping Water & Finishing Touches
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing a Simple Pump. We are extremely proud of the high quality products that we manufacture. We have installed our pumps in a variety of well types and sizes and our instructions are a result of installation experience. Please carefully read through these instructions. Your time will be well spent. At any time, if you think you are overwhelmed, get the help of a professional pump installer. We will be referring to parts by their part number and name. Use the attached part's list to identify parts as you read through these instructions.
Assembly Parts List
P1 Pumping Cylinder
P2 Pump Head
P3 Top Pump Rod
P4 Lever Bracket
P5 Lever Link Arm
P6 Lever
P7 Clevis
P8 Pivot Pin (3)
P9 Well Cover
P10 Split Flange
P11 Safety Tool
D1 Standard Drop Pipe
D2 Sucker Rod w/ male & female fused ends
D3 Sucker Rod Guide
D5 Top Drop Pipe
Section 1: Do It Yourself or Call a Pump Professional?
Before considering whether to perform this installation yourself, you need to first determine what type of cover is on your existing well case. Replacing your existing well cover with the cover provided with your new Simple pump is necessary to support the hand pump head. Covers are made in a wide variety of shapes and form. We break them down into two categories for determining who will perform the installation:
PRESSURE PIPE THROUGH THE COVER
If your cover has pressure piping that passes through it and continues to your house system, a pump installer can easily do the task of replacing the cover. This type of cover generally supports the entire string of pipe extending down to the electric pump. This string of pipe can weigh hundreds of pounds. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THIS TYPE OF COVER UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING! Your pump installer has equipment to lift the string and the cover. Your installer can lift the string a short distance, and using a special clamp, can replace the old cover with the new cover and set it back onto the case.
NO PRESSURE PIPE THROUGH THE COVER
If your cover does not have pressure piping passing through it, you probably can perform the installation yourself if you are comfortable with simple plumbing tasks. You will also need to disconnect your existing well pump wiring under the cover and reconnect it through the new cover. This may require installing electrical flexible conduit, connecting electrical fittings and reconnecting the pump wiring. It is important that you can safely eliminate the possibility of power being applied to these lines while you are working on them. These are usually 240 volts. ELECTRICITY CAN KILL! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PERFORM ELECTRICAL ALTERATIONS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. If you have the skills described, the installation is really quite simple. Most of the work is in changing over the well cover. Setting the pump requires approximately three to five minutes per 9' section.
Section 2: Inspecting Your Existing System
In this section you will remove your existing cover and inspect your well for any obstacles that might obstruct the installation of your new hand pump.
a) Make certain that your electric well power source has been shut off and locked off. You will probably be a considerable distance from the power shutoff and the possibility of the power inadvertently being turned on must be eliminated.
b) Remove your existing cover. There are so many styles, you will have to figure this one out on your own.
c) Untangle any wiring under the cover and pull the wires from the pump tight, with the excess out of the case.
d) Using a mirror reflecting the sun (don't laugh it's the best way), shine down the casing. If you have a straight well, you can see the water reflecting as deep as 200 feet. About 4 feet below the ground level you will see the special fitting (called a "pitless adapter") which takes your pressure piping to your house. The piping to the hand pump will pass right beside this fitting. On some installations, "torque arrrestors" are installed to keep the pipe and wiring at the center. Certain versions of these might prevent the hand pump piping from passing to the water level, in which case a pump installer can remove the unneeded ones. Torque arrestors are only necessary at the electric pump. The Simple Pump will be installed 20 to 100 feet above the electric pump. Now that you have determined that you have a relatively unobstructed path to the water, you can proceed.
Section 3: Replacing the Existing Well Cover
TOOLS: Wire cutters, strippers, Allen wrench set.
a) When you untangled the pump wiring, you should have found connections. Typically these are wire nuts under electrical tape. They may be crimped connectors, in which case you will need to cut the wires close to the connectors. You will usually have three wires and sometimes four. Note the colors and disconnect them. As an additional safety precaution, take the bare wire ends coming from the house and touch them to the well case one at a time as you disconnect them. If for some reason there was power, they would arc against the case and not you. The wires must reconnect in the same order. You may need to tie some twine onto the pump wires to keep them from falling down the well. The wires should however be taped to the piping a few feet down.
b) Inspect the outer rim of the well case. Your new cover is made to fit either a standard 6" or 8" pipe. The case should measure either 6 5/8" or 8 5/8" on the outside diameter. Your new cover has 1/16" clearance Well drillers often leave torch slag on the case. This needs to be removed if it protrudes beyond the outside diameter. A sharp flat file will remove it. A hand grinder will also work very quickly.
c) Taking the wiring from inside the case, pass the wires through the 1" port in the new cover. Now slide the cover over the case, level if necessary and tighten the four outer set screws.
d) You will need to carefully evaluate your wiring to determine the best method to enclose the wiring. Sometimes flexible conduit is the easiest method. However you finish off the electrical conduit, make certain that the wiring is reconnected in the same order as the original. Also make certain that the wiring inside the case does not obstruct the path for the hand pump piping as you look down through the split flange (P10). Once your existing wiring is reconnected, you can energize your electric pump and make sure that it is working normally before you proceed. The hardest part is done.
Section 4: Pump Cylinder & Drop Pipe Installation
In this section we will review the installation of the entire string of new drop pipe with the pump cylinder at the bottom. Being extremely cautious during this sequence is critical. Dropping the entire string down the well is easy. They are almost impossible to retrieve. Follow these directions!
Tools & supplies needed: (1) pair of channel locks, (2) pairs of vise grips, safety tool included (P11), Allen wrench set, pipe dope or Teflon tape, bleach/water 1part bleach 24 parts water. Before starting, let's identify and organize the parts that we will need. On the model 100, the drop pipes are all identical except the one that will be used on the top (D5). This one has male threads on both ends…1” threads on the bottom end, 1 ¼” threads on the top end. On the model 125, the bottom drop pipe has 1¼” male threads on the bottom end that threads into the 125 pump. On both the 100 and 125, the top end of the top drop pipe has 1 ¼” male pipe threads on a fitting. A 1/16” diameter weep hole has been drilled at a point four feet down from the top fitting.
a) Lay out all of your pipes with the capped ends away from you.
- Wipe outside of pipe thoroughly, and rinse inside of pipe, taking care to remove any debris, dirt, PVC sawdust, etc.
- You will find that a sucker rod that has been shipped inside each drop pipe, this may not be the orientation for installation. Please be sure to read these instructions completely and call with any questions.
b) Take the pump cylinder (P1) with piston rod male threads protruding and thread on a female sucker rod end. Tighten the sucker rod couplers with two pairs of vice grips.
c) Apply pipe dope or Teflon tape and thread the drop pipe into the pump cylinder. Be careful not to cross thread. Hand tighten the PVC drop pipe into the SS body of the pump while holding the pump body with one channel lock.
d) Wipe off the excess dope and pour the bleach solution over the pump cylinder. (Watch your clothes.)
e) (Two people needed for this step.) Now stand the assembly on end with the pump cylinder at the bottom, and insert the assembly into the new well cover through the split flange (P10). When the pump passes through the port, slide the safety tool over the pipe and let it lay on the split flange. As the pipe is lowered, the safety tool will stop the drop pipe at the coupling. You can now let loose.
f)  You should be looking at a female coupling with a male sucker rod end protruding about 4". (The rod should be pushed to the bottom, if it is not already there, see picture to right.) Now take a sucker rod guide (D3) and slide it over the protruding rod and into the female coupling. Then take a sucker rod with female end and thread this onto the protruding male sucker rod end. Tighten the sucker rod couplers with two pairs of vice grips until there is a very small or no gap between the male and female sucker rod couplers.
g) Take another section of standard drop pipe (D1) and stand on end with the blue plastic cap down. With one person holding the pipe upright over the female coupling in the well cover held in place by the safety tool, the other person can remove the blue plastic cap. Apply pipe dope or Teflon tape and then thread both pieces of drop pipe together making sure they are not cross threaded. Hand-tighten the newly-added drop pipe while holding the outside of the female fitting of the already-assembled drop pipe with one pair of vise grips. DO NOT TIGHTEN TO MORE THAN 3/4” OF THREAD ENGAGEMENT OR YOU WILL DISTORT THE ROD GUIDE. Do not let the coupling spin on the safety tool, as it can work its way out. Wipe off the excess dope. Lift the pipe string while the other person removes the safety tool. As soon as the coupling passes through the port, reinsert the safety tool and hold it until the next coupling approaches. As the next coupling nears the safety tool, the other person can grab the sucker rod and pull upward helping to support the load and to keep the other person from pinching his fingers as the coupling comes into contact with the safety tool.
NOTE: This process is repeated for each section of standard drop pipe. When you suspect that you might be near your water level, pull up on the sucker rod at any time. If you are not in the water yet, the rod will fall very quickly. When you are in water, the rod will fall more slowly. Sometimes, as the pipe is lowered, a gurgling sound can be heard when the pump is in water. You can also stroke the rod repeatedly and water will be pumped up the string. If you are in water, it will become harder to stroke after ten strokes or so. The pipe string is also much heavier with water in it. DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE SECTIONS OF DROP PIPE AS THIS CAN DISTORT THE ROD GUIDE AND CAUSE SEVERE BINDING. THE MALE NPT THREADS ARE TAPERED AND EXCESSIVE TORQUE IS NOT NECESSARY TO PREVENT LEAKAGE. TIGHTEN TO A MAXIMUM OF 3/4” OF THREAD ENGAGEMENT.
h) When you are ready for the top drop pipe, install it just like the others, however, a rod guide is not required in the top fitting as linear alignment of the top end of the top sucker rod will be controlled by the ¾” shaft and the rod gland at the pump head. Lower this drop pipe down to the safety tool just like the others completed so far.
Section 5: Pump Head Installation 
In this section we will review the installation and assembly of the pump head.
Tools / supplies needed: One pair of channel locks, two pair of vise grips, Allen Wrench Set
a) Find the 3/4" diameter top pump rod (P3) and thread it onto the sucker rod at the well cover. Tighten with two pairs of vise grips. Grip the 3/4" rod only on the flats near its top end.
b) Attach the lever bracket (P4) to the pump head with the 1/4" Allen screws provided. The straight side of the bracket should be at the top.
c) Apply pipe dope to the male thread at the top of the drop pipe string. Slide the pump head over the 3/4" shaft and align and thread onto the top drop pipe (D5). Make sure the pump head is perfectly vertical. This part is easy to cross thread. While holding the coupling with channel locks, the other person can tighten by turning the top of the pump head.
d) Now with a 1/4" Allen wrench, find the clamping screw inside the split flange. Lift and remove the safety tool and lower the riser tube into the split flange. This is a snug fit and may require a short shot of a pan release spray such as PAM. Rotate the assembly clockwise and the pump will work its way through the split flange. Continue until the pump head is at a convenient height. Tighten the split flange clamping screw pretty tight.
e) Attach the clevis (P7) to the top pump shaft (P3) and tighten while gripping the shaft only near the end, next to the clevis. These threads are LEFT-HAND so that when tightened the other previously tightened sucker rod connections are not loosened.
f) Slide the link arm (P5) over the lever bracket (P4) aligning the holes. Insert the pivot pin (P8). These go in a little hard. A little Vaseline on the tip helps.
g) Assemble the lever (P6) to the lever link arm (P5) and clevis (P7) using the remaining pivot pins making sure to install the two brass wear shims.
Section 6: Pumping Water & Finishing Touches
It will require about one stroke for each foot of water depth to get the water up to the pump head. 100 feet will require about 100 strokes. There is a very small bleeder hole (1/16”) about 4 feet below your pump head, in the top drop pipe. This takes about 15 minutes to drain and protects the pump against freezing. Each time you go out to pump after a period of time, it will require about six to eight strokes to get the water back to the pump head. The check valves in the pump cylinder allow a very small amount of leakage over time. Over several days or weeks, you may need to pump a few extra strokes to get the water back to the top.
Pressure Piping:
The stainless steel outlet nipple has 3/4" pipe threads on both ends. We have supplied a brass garden hose adaptor should you want to connect to a garden hose. This allows for a variety of possible piping configurations from the outlet. If you intend to pressurize your house pressure tank from the hand pump, we recommend that a check valve be installed so that the freeze protection drain will not drain off your house pressure. Also make sure that a relief valve is installed somewhere in the system to prevent overpressuring. The Simple pump can deliver well over 100 PSI, which may damage your house plumbing if protection is not provided. In climates where freezing occurs, protection will need to be provided to prevent the Simple Pump from freezing if piped from the outlet.
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